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September 16, 2019, 08:17:30 PM

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Author Topic: The Silver Bullet - resurrection of a TJ  (Read 29140 times)
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Jeepsnbuses
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« Reply #330 on: July 26, 2019, 04:07:45 PM »

Bedrug looks fantastic!!  As for the bump stop, donít worry about the distance to the rubber. That will compress to the cup. The cup is what matters. I have the bumpers and they are a bit longer than stock. I think you are good.

Sarkis


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Ha, thanks.  Forgot I had even asked about that until I posted about the rug.

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
Jeepsnbuses
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« Reply #331 on: September 10, 2019, 07:37:06 AM »

Have barely had time to change the oil in my wife and I's daily drivers, let alone touch the Jeep, since at least July. On a jog this morning it dawned on me that I haven't really put together an updated to-do list since I first brought it home in March of last year, so maybe doing that will motivate me to carve some time out and get moving again.

Known needs:

- Large/small evap leak codes are still present. Gas cap is done, checked connections at the charcoal cannister, replaced the purge solenoid valve, and replaced a couple suspect hoses under the hood. I have all the ingredients to make a DIY foot-pump smoke machine and may do that today between calls today. I was ignoring this problem for a long time but noticed the last time I drove that it's really beginning to rob me of power. The one area I have yet to focus on is the engine intake system in general, and suspect I may have a leak near the throttle body, or more likely a loose or leaking intake manifold/gasket. Redneck smoke machine should tell me where to go.
- The center vents in my dash don't blow air, nor do the side vents by the doors. Hot or cold. I get air at all speeds under the dash and from the defog vent but nothing across the face of the dash. Thinking a stuck duct door of some sort?
- I have better shocks that need to go into the front.
- Have a set of 2" coil spring spacers to help reduce the pretty significant rake my Jeep has. Thinking of installing the 2" spacers as-is in the front, and moving the front OEM spacers to the rear. Low priority, but going to play around with this.
- Have an adjustable track bar for the front that will go in along with the spacers.
- Need to replace crappy quick-disco front sway bar links with strong, fixed nuts and bolts. The quick disconnects I have in place are creating way too much slop in the front while driving.
- I am still running on 2 different keys for this Jeep, one for the ignition (aftermarket) and another for the door locks (OEM). I have tried messing with the wafers in the lock cylinders to make my OEM key work in the ignition with no luck, but Spencer's Lock and Key in Sterling has told me they can take care of this for under $50.
- The Jeep is still mashed in on the driver's side, below the driver's door. I have received many generous offers from gents out there willing to assist in fixing this but I have physically not had the time to set this up. In the meantime, I am just down the road from Matchless Body Works in Vienna and plan to drop in for an estimate this week. Wondering if they have equipment better suited to pull this section of my Jeep in short order for a nominal fee that could work better for me in terms of time.
- Farther down the road, but want to throw some wheel adapters on and get this Jeep on some JKR takeoffs.
- ??????
« Last Edit: September 14, 2019, 01:45:49 PM by Jeepsnbuses »

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
sjalkian
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« Reply #332 on: September 10, 2019, 08:47:51 AM »

Have barely had time to change the oil in my wife and I's daily drivers, let alone touch the Jeep, since at least July. On a jog this morning it dawned on me that I haven't really put together an updated to-do list since I first brought it home in March of last year, so maybe doing that will motivate me to carve some time out and get moving again.

Known needs:

- Large/small evap leak codes are still present. Gas cap is done, checked connections at the charcoal cannister, replaced the purge solenoid valve, and replaced a couple suspect hoses under the hood. I have all the ingredients to make a DIY foot-pump smoke machine and may do that today between calls today. I was ignoring this problem for a long time but noticed the last time I drove that it's really beginning to rob me of power. The one area I have yet to focus on is the engine intake system in general, and suspect I may have a leak near the throttle body, or more likely a loose or leaking intake manifold/gasket. Redneck smoke machine should tell me where to go.
- The center vents in my dash don't blow air, nor do the side vents by the doors. Hot or cold. I get air at all speeds under the dash and from the defog vent but nothing across the face of the dash. Thinking a stuck duct door of some sort?
- I have better shocks that need to go into the front.
- Have a set of 2" coil spring spacers to help reduce the pretty significant rake my Jeep has. Thinking of installing the 2" spacers as-is in the front, and moving the front OEM spacers to the rear. Low priority, but going to play around with this.
- Have an adjustable track bar for the front that will go in along with the spacers.
- Need to replace crappy quick-disco front sway bar links with strong, fixed nuts and bolts. The quick disconnects I have in place are creating way too much slop in the front while driving.
- I am still running on 2 different keys for this Jeep, one for the ignition (aftermarket) and another for the door locks (OEM). I have tried messing with the wafers in the lock cylinders to make my OEM key work in the ignition with no luck, but Spencer's Lock and Key in Sterling has told me they can take care of this for under $50.
- The Jeep is still mashed in on the driver's side, below the driver's door. I have received many generous offers from gents out there willing to assist in fixing this but I have physically not had the time to set this up. In the meantime, I am just down the road from Matchless Body Works in Vienna and plan to drop in for an estimate this week. Wondering if they have equipment better suited to pull this section of my Jeep in short order for a nominal fee that could work better for me in terms of time.
- Farther down the road, but want to throw some wheel adapters on and get this Jeep on some JKR takeoffs.
- ??????
Adam,

That's a good list.  I have a temperature reader that might help with finding the leak.  Otherwise, you know I'm down to help getting the spacers/shocks/track bar installed.

Sarkis

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2000 TJ SE
4.25 total lift (3" SL and 1.25"BL)
33's
Rear D44 with ARB locker and 33 spline cromo shafts and 4.88 gears
Front HP D30 with Aussie Locker and 4.88 gears
X20 10K Synthetic Winch
overhead
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Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #333 on: September 10, 2019, 08:54:01 AM »

arent the spacers different sizes?

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The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
sjalkian
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« Reply #334 on: September 10, 2019, 08:59:01 AM »

arent the spacers different sizes?
They are but I think by removing the OEM from spacer which is about 3/4" and putting that in the rear and then adding the 2" front spacer it should even out the rake he is experiencing.  So net the front will go up 1.25" and the rear up the 3/4" should be about a rake effect of 1/2" up front.  He'll also gain a little clearance to go with it.  That's the idea at least.  I would start with just doing the front and see how it looks and go from there.

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2000 TJ SE
4.25 total lift (3" SL and 1.25"BL)
33's
Rear D44 with ARB locker and 33 spline cromo shafts and 4.88 gears
Front HP D30 with Aussie Locker and 4.88 gears
X20 10K Synthetic Winch
Jeepsnbuses
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Posts: 1363
« Reply #335 on: September 10, 2019, 10:21:28 AM »

Correct. We'll see how that goes. It's a low priority for me among the other items on this list and will end up being a "while I'm in there" type of project. If I need to end up pulling them back out and trimming them down a bit, I can do that as well.

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
overhead
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Posts: 10112
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #336 on: September 10, 2019, 11:51:33 AM »

arent the spacers different sizes?
They are but I think by removing the OEM from spacer which is about 3/4" and putting that in the rear and then adding the 2" front spacer it should even out the rake he is experiencing.  So net the front will go up 1.25" and the rear up the 3/4" should be about a rake effect of 1/2" up front.  He'll also gain a little clearance to go with it.  That's the idea at least.  I would start with just doing the front and see how it looks and go from there.

i mean the size of the spacer like with width, I didn't think you could interchange them

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The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
sjalkian
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Posts: 151
« Reply #337 on: September 10, 2019, 12:27:46 PM »

arent the spacers different sizes?
They are but I think by removing the OEM from spacer which is about 3/4" and putting that in the rear and then adding the 2" front spacer it should even out the rake he is experiencing.  So net the front will go up 1.25" and the rear up the 3/4" should be about a rake effect of 1/2" up front.  He'll also gain a little clearance to go with it.  That's the idea at least.  I would start with just doing the front and see how it looks and go from there.

i mean the size of the spacer like with width, I didn't think you could interchange them
The diameter is this same as Iíve used those pucks on the front and rear.


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2000 TJ SE
4.25 total lift (3" SL and 1.25"BL)
33's
Rear D44 with ARB locker and 33 spline cromo shafts and 4.88 gears
Front HP D30 with Aussie Locker and 4.88 gears
X20 10K Synthetic Winch
unleashd
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Posts: 377
« Reply #338 on: September 10, 2019, 04:27:53 PM »

Adam, I have a set of JK 17" wheels if you are looking to buy Smile I might sell the current setup with 17" M/Ts and trade for some decent 15's too  Thumbs Up

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Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
sirjames186
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Member 2018 VA4WD
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Posts: 2498
05 LJ
« Reply #339 on: September 10, 2019, 05:26:58 PM »

Once you fix the evap leak, check the vents again, I'm fighting a leak which is keeping mine on defrost only. Fixing the vaacum leak might help the doors move if they aren't actually blocked.

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"I'm no longer ashamed to wheel with you." - Jeremy
Jeepsnbuses
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« Reply #340 on: September 11, 2019, 07:19:17 AM »

Adam, I have a set of JK 17" wheels if you are looking to buy Smile I might sell the current setup with 17" M/Ts and trade for some decent 15's too  Thumbs Up

I'll give you a ping this morning Prakash, thanks

Once you fix the evap leak, check the vents again, I'm fighting a leak which is keeping mine on defrost only. Fixing the vaacum leak might help the doors move if they aren't actually blocked.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Thanks dude, this is an interesting thought that I had not considered.  When driving it around the other day I also noticed a high-pitched whistling under medium-to-heavy throttle that kinda makes me think it's intake-related. 

Damn James now you have me thinking...I've spent a lot of time looking through vac lines around the intake and evap system, but I can't remember how much I looked at the lines that run over to the passenger side under the hood and pull vacuum for climate control.  I'll be checking those today. I wonder...

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
sirjames186
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Member 2018 VA4WD
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Posts: 2498
05 LJ
« Reply #341 on: September 11, 2019, 10:10:38 AM »

Adam, I have a set of JK 17" wheels if you are looking to buy Smile I might sell the current setup with 17" M/Ts and trade for some decent 15's too  Thumbs Up

I'll give you a ping this morning Prakash, thanks

Once you fix the evap leak, check the vents again, I'm fighting a leak which is keeping mine on defrost only. Fixing the vaacum leak might help the doors move if they aren't actually blocked.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Thanks dude, this is an interesting thought that I had not considered.  When driving it around the other day I also noticed a high-pitched whistling under medium-to-heavy throttle that kinda makes me think it's intake-related. 

Damn James now you have me thinking...I've spent a lot of time looking through vac lines around the intake and evap system, but I can't remember how much I looked at the lines that run over to the passenger side under the hood and pull vacuum for climate control.  I'll be checking those today. I wonder...
I could be way off. I don't have a CEL for mine, but the darn thing won't blow out the front vents. If it switches from defrost to foot its probably blocked, but if it's just defrost with the residual foot flow (always happens even when it's working) that's a leak. It's worth an easy look while you're under the hood instead of pulling the dash to get the hvac box. If you do end up pulling the dash to check for a blockage, might as well just do the heater core while you're at it. Getting that box out is a pain and you don't want to go back a year or 2 later when it leaks. Then again, maybe the budget says you do, just something to consider.

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"I'm no longer ashamed to wheel with you." - Jeremy
RFH_98TJ
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« Reply #342 on: September 11, 2019, 12:54:20 PM »

As I think you both are eluding to, if it is running only on defrost setting, no matter where you put the control, it is usually a vacuum leak issue.  Most of the time, right at the intake manifold fitting or under the battery at the vacuum reservoir.  I tiny leak could cause it to act normal under most conditions.  However, when you are accelerating, it looses vacuum and again defaults to defrost, and then works right when you let off the gas.  This is a safety precaution so you can always clear your windshield.  If you are getting a code, it is usually the vacuum line that goes to the tank from the vacuum pump at the plastic box (shoebox size) near the brake booster.  Obviously, a Jeep that has been sitting could have both of these problems at once.

Use that smoke machine and they will show up quick.  I'm hoping mice haven't got you.

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98 TJ 4.0 Sport 5-speed - 4" lift on 33s, 4.56 on D30 with Lock Right and Ford 8.8 LS, more stuff to come

- Frank
Jeepsnbuses
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Posts: 1363
« Reply #343 on: September 11, 2019, 10:05:16 PM »

As I think you both are eluding to, if it is running only on defrost setting, no matter where you put the control, it is usually a vacuum leak issue.  Most of the time, right at the intake manifold fitting or under the battery at the vacuum reservoir.  I tiny leak could cause it to act normal under most conditions.  However, when you are accelerating, it looses vacuum and again defaults to defrost, and then works right when you let off the gas.  This is a safety precaution so you can always clear your windshield.  If you are getting a code, it is usually the vacuum line that goes to the tank from the vacuum pump at the plastic box (shoebox size) near the brake booster.  Obviously, a Jeep that has been sitting could have both of these problems at once.

Use that smoke machine and they will show up quick.  I'm hoping mice haven't got you.

Ah okay, if that is the case then this seems to rule out a vacuum-related issue for the HVAC. I can run my climate control on all speeds, and can send it to defog alone, footwells alone, or dash-face vents (at which point itís weak). I also pretty thoroughly checked the climate-side of the vacuum system across under the hood, and removed the battery/tray to chase the line underneath to the collection box. No leaks found and looking pretty clean. Seems like at this point it could be a blockage in the system, so maybe I pull the vent system apart at some point ahead of winter and give it a once-over. I have yet to dig into that part of the Jeep since itís been mine.

What I did find: made a hillbilly smoke machine that worked pretty flawlessly. This took:

- 1 mason jar
- 1 basic Bic pen
- 1 cheap-o soldering iron
- Some 3/8Ē-ish clear plastic tubing
- Bicycle pump
- Run of the mill epoxy paste
- Sock
- Baby oil

I think Rich/Runner suggested this to me originally, so credit goes to him. These materials were like $15 total and I made the thing in 15 minutes (epoxy sat 24 hours). Smoke was pouring out and filled my system without ever coming close to running out of smoke, no matter how much I pumped.





I expected smoke from the intake manifold gasket or some random line I had overlooked, but it ended up coming from what appeared to be the throttle body or its gasket. I pulled the TB and the gasket was crusty but seemed ok. Going to replace it and see what happens. I refreshed the TB and some sensors last year but donít remember if I did the gasket or not. If I didnít I probably should have.

I also found thisóa cracked/broken intake air temp sensor (someone correct me if Iím wrong). Iím wondering if this being cracked could somehow be throwing oddball voltages or spikes and causing a CEL? Either way, itís getting replaced.



Also shoved some half inch bolts and lock washers into the sway bar end links. Didnít get to test drive because I tore apart my TB, but that to-do is done.

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
overhead
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Posts: 10112
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #344 on: September 11, 2019, 10:27:22 PM »

I wonder if you could regulate that with a compressor rather than a pump. Hmmmmmm

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The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
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