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February 23, 2019, 04:28:01 PM

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infinitedh
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« on: February 05, 2019, 11:57:34 PM »

I've got a 2000 TJ with stock D30/D35 with 3.07 gears. I recently picked up a pair of Rubi D44s with lockers out of a 2003 Scott (crazyskier92) was parting out. I'm working on getting the axle pumps installed under the hood as well as all the wiring for the front and rear locker rocker switches. Once I get that done, I need to focus on cleaning up the new axles. Both have been tested with the old pumps and the lockers work. Having said all that, I have three questions:

1) How much clean up should I really do on these? They're a little greasy with some rust. Is it worth spending hours sanding and then rattle canning or should I just POR-15 them? Or should I just install them as is?

2) Heard it said a few ways, but I want to clarify: to independently wire the axle pumps, it's red to switched power, black to ground, ignore the pink, and the pumps should shut off when they hit pressure of ~5lbs or so, right? I just bought new replacement pumps and don't want to blow them. When I hook up the old ones, the red wire only clicks when put to power. The pink runs nonstop (vs shutting off) even when the lockers are engaged, so I'm guessing the pumps are shot.

3) How difficult/time-consuming a job is this, and do wrenching parties actually occur where random guys show up with tools and/or offer up their garages and tools to help a fellow Jeeper do a mod?  I've got a buddy with the best of intentions and a dad who's got a kick-buns garage with all the tools (including a car lift) I could ever need, but his follow through is not the best. I doubt I'll ever actually be able to get him to take the time off to swap these with me, so I need to figure out whether I can truly do this on my own with some skilled helpers I've never met. I am not the most mechanically inclined, but I've done a fair bit of work to my TJ...added a lift with the help of a buddy, etc. Driveline stuff is where I am very uncomfortable and paid for the SYE/CV conversion.

Appreciate in advance any help and advice you all can offer. Thanks!

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Jeepsnbuses
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2019, 07:19:14 AM »

Despite things being a little heavy and bulky, axle swaps are pretty darn straight-forward...especially a swap from one TJ to another.  You can definitely do this mostly on your own with the help of a floor jack and a jack stand or two, but it would make things immensely easier when it comes to dropping bolts in, tightening things up, aligning steering and suspension, to have a second body there to hold things in place.  Lift not required for this one.  Unbolt your current axles, and bolt the new Rubi axles in in the opposite way.  Piece of cake.

Since they are out of the Jeep as it is and if you plan on keeping the Jeep for a while, I would say it would be worth your time to at least wire wheel the bulk of the axles, spray the dust off/vacuum up the mess, and throw a coat or two of paint on them.  Wire wheels that snap onto the end of a cordless drill are pretty cheap and do a decent job, and it really doesn't take all that long.  Far, far easier to do this without them being under the Jeep.

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2002 TJ Sport
Tow rig: 1973 Thomas school bus RV conversion. It's slow.

- Adam
R3
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2019, 07:41:23 AM »

Nice acquisition and upgrade to your TJ.

thoughts:
1) what are you building to/ Show  and shine , daily drive or off road rig? I am assuming that you are building to a clean  off road capable rig that hits the trails.  If you have the time  a good clean , prep and paint is nice but paint will chip, scratch and crack with time and adventures off road.  If you go the paint route I would suggest  powder coating much more durable.   If it were me, a good clean and inspect and some rustoleum primer and paint.
Would consider replacing  rubber bushings, hoses and normal wear items before install.  Maybe some diff cover armor as well just much easier and cleaner  working on a pair of saw horses.

2) I am not much help with the axle pump wiring, If they are air operated the air pump  I would think needs to maintain pressure so one part of that switch  once activated  should have a lead going to a pressure switch. When line pressure falls below required or set pressure, the  pressure switch( regulator) would  send a signal to activate the pump to build and maintain line pressure.  You will have to confirm this with a wiring diagram. Operationally I would agree with independent  actuation of the lockers.

3) Wrenching parties I have only been party to a few  but they have been very productive.   Gr8Dains Sniper EFI install was the last one. Swapping axles  is not hard save from rusted nuts and stuck bolts.  I would suggest  have new hardware on hand for the 4-link arms, shock mounts and track bars  this way if a nut or bolt fails to  copporate a cut off wheel  can be applied and new hardware  installed.  I would think, with a couple of guys  and a fair set of tools a garage squad wrenching party could  pull both and install the new  in one day, leaving the following to clean up the install.  Tall Jack stands, floor jacks or a transmission jack will make axle handling  easier.  In addition I would recommend  parking the jeep in the middle of the garage so that there is ready access to both sides.

 You look to have enough room  in you garage  to do the swap. Do you have the tools needed?   I will offer this,  I have a large garage but  I am a bit out of the way in King George VA. I would be happy to assisit  and offer my garage as a spot to  do the swap if you like. I have tools , air, torch and welder but no two or four post lift just smooth concrete.

Cheers

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Cheers
RRR
17 JKURR
4.5 Metal cloak
37 BFG ATs
Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....
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"Keep calm and carry on, No Thanks! I would rather raise hell and change the world."
RFH_98TJ
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« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2019, 07:43:18 AM »

Wow!  Great score from Scott!

Did you get everything to properly install your rear driveshaft?  Not sure if it would be a different length or not.  Maybe someone else can verify?  You will also at some point need to order a correct-tooth speedo gear to correct the speedo (easy to figure out which one online).  While they are out of the vehicle its also a perfect time to open them up and inspect them.  Before cleaning them, see if there is any signs of a weeping pinion seal (like oil all around it) or axle seals (oil on the brake areas).  Its easier to replace them when the axles are removed.  Easy time to do a brake job too if needed.  Afterwards, I'd DEFINITELY clean them down real good (sand paper and solvent) and paint them with, at a minimum, Rustoleum satin black.  You may wish to install better diff covers too assuming the goal is to do more challenging wheeling.

As for install tools, besides the obvious wrenches and sockets, you'll need a floor jack, jack stands, and a ratchet strap to help align the control arm bolts.  Oh yeah, start spraying the brake line connections with penetrating oil so they will come undone easier.

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98 TJ 4.0 Sport 5-speed - 4" lift on 33s, 4.56 on D30 with Lock Right and Ford 8.8 LS, more stuff to come

- Frank
highlandercj-7
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« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2019, 07:52:01 AM »

Definitely clean them up and paint them. If you use POR15 be sure to top coat it as it's not UV stable. I would at least put a wire cup in a drill and clean them. It is easier to do this now and it preserves the parts.

The swap is a simple one. If you put the pumps and wiring in that's the hardest part.

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HighlanderCJ-7
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« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2019, 09:00:46 AM »

X2 on open and inspect, Seals, brakes and the like are much easier to do on the bench.

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Cheers
RRR
17 JKURR
4.5 Metal cloak
37 BFG ATs
Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....
next?

"Keep calm and carry on, No Thanks! I would rather raise hell and change the world."
RFH_98TJ
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« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2019, 10:56:41 AM »

When you remove the axles it is usually easier to leave the control arms and shocks attached to the Jeep instead of the axle.  In the rear, the upper shock bolts are quite often rusted in place and create an additional problem to remove and replace them.  They are awkward and hard to get to - don't mess with them.  Unhook the rear e-brake lines at the coupler on the bottom of the tub and pull them with the axle.  Swap them to the new axle prior to installing it.  When re-installing the axle, attach the upper control arms first, followed by one of the lower control arms.  The other lower control arm may require a ratchet strap to get the bolt to align and push thru.  Assuming your Jeep is lifted, you may or may not need to check the track bars after you are done.  You will most likely need to check the toe in/out when you are done too.  Finally, you will also need to bleed the brakes - great time to have an assistant available.

Note: If you are contemplating upgrading your shocks at some point, when the rear axle is out would be the time to see if the upper rear bolts will come out.  Start spraying them with penetrating oil now!  This way if they do break, you will have more room to drill them out with the axle not being in the way.

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98 TJ 4.0 Sport 5-speed - 4" lift on 33s, 4.56 on D30 with Lock Right and Ford 8.8 LS, more stuff to come

- Frank
highlandercj-7
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« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2019, 12:55:43 PM »

IIRC the front brake calipers are the same. So you shouldn't have to bleed them. I would remove them and hang them and then re-install them. The rear lines are the only ones that would need to be broke open.

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HighlanderCJ-7
unl1mtd
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« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2019, 04:29:47 PM »

What year are the rears? They are at least 4 years newer than your Jeep so upgrade all around!  Agree the process is simple enough to do in a garage with basic tools.

Wire wheel and paint. Brakes. Diff service. But I would not chase the pressed in bushings, ball joints or any internal diff work unless it obviously needs it.

Complications that I know of that I didnít see mentioned:

-Rubicon ujoint size is different I think
-Rear brakes if you had drums, your parking cables likely wonít work with the discs as they have different internal adapters in the hub

Edit, your new D44 rear came with brake cables, you are good there.

Also a note. I have done 6 garage axle swaps with basic tools, itís doable even for noobs. An extra set of hands goes a long way. Think safety and you will be good.

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infinitedh
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« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2019, 04:54:22 PM »

What year are the rears? They are at least 4 years newer than your Jeep so upgrade all around!  Agree the process is simple enough to do in a garage with basic tools.

Wire wheel and paint. Brakes. Diff service. But I would not chase the pressed in bushings, ball joints or any internal diff work unless it obviously needs it.

Complications that I know of that I didnít see mentioned:

-Rubicon ujoint size is different I think
-Rear brakes if you had drums, your parking cables likely wonít work with the discs as they have different internal adapters in the hub

Edit, your new D44 rear came with brake cables, you are good there.

Also a note. I have done 6 garage axle swaps with basic tools, itís doable even for noobs. An extra set of hands goes a long way. Think safety and you will be good.
Thanks. My Jeep is a TJ and the new axles (front and rear) are from an '03. Definitely an upgrade although my D30/D35 combo is a lot cleaner. But oh well.

Based on the comments I've gotten, I'm going to do the job in my garage as time allows and ask a buddy (or you guys) to come help when I need extra hands. No rush. I just need to be done by August for Jeep Jam at Coal Mountain. I just bought a 3ton jack and pair of 6ton jack stands for the frame and pair of 1ton jack stands to sit the axles on while I'm working on them.

The diff service and stuff like that scares the hell out of me because I'm completely out of my element, but I'll take it slowly and call for help when I need it.

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infinitedh
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« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2019, 05:04:49 PM »

Nice acquisition and upgrade to your TJ.

thoughts:
1) what are you building to/ Show  and shine , daily drive or off road rig? I am assuming that you are building to a clean  off road capable rig that hits the trails.  If you have the time  a good clean , prep and paint is nice but paint will chip, scratch and crack with time and adventures off road.  If you go the paint route I would suggest  powder coating much more durable.   If it were me, a good clean and inspect and some rustoleum primer and paint.
Would consider replacing  rubber bushings, hoses and normal wear items before install.  Maybe some diff cover armor as well just much easier and cleaner  working on a pair of saw horses.

2) I am not much help with the axle pump wiring, If they are air operated the air pump  I would think needs to maintain pressure so one part of that switch  once activated  should have a lead going to a pressure switch. When line pressure falls below required or set pressure, the  pressure switch( regulator) would  send a signal to activate the pump to build and maintain line pressure.  You will have to confirm this with a wiring diagram. Operationally I would agree with independent  actuation of the lockers.

3) Wrenching parties I have only been party to a few  but they have been very productive.   Gr8Dains Sniper EFI install was the last one. Swapping axles  is not hard save from rusted nuts and stuck bolts.  I would suggest  have new hardware on hand for the 4-link arms, shock mounts and track bars  this way if a nut or bolt fails to  copporate a cut off wheel  can be applied and new hardware  installed.  I would think, with a couple of guys  and a fair set of tools a garage squad wrenching party could  pull both and install the new  in one day, leaving the following to clean up the install.  Tall Jack stands, floor jacks or a transmission jack will make axle handling  easier.  In addition I would recommend  parking the jeep in the middle of the garage so that there is ready access to both sides.

 You look to have enough room  in you garage  to do the swap. Do you have the tools needed?   I will offer this,  I have a large garage but  I am a bit out of the way in King George VA. I would be happy to assisit  and offer my garage as a spot to  do the swap if you like. I have tools , air, torch and welder but no two or four post lift just smooth concrete.

Cheers

Apologies on my delayed response.  You nailed in on #1.  This was my "garaged only-drive-it-on-Sundays Jeep" when I first bought it, then a daily driver for a few years when I moved to Boston and could only have one car.  Once I could afford a new DD a few years back, this became the garaged Jeep again; and I was able to lift it and put on 33s but had an overheating issue, so I never got to take it wheeling.  I got a taste of actually wheeling last year at a Jeep Jam where I was a passenger; so now I'm rearing to go.  I think I have the overheating issue licked; but I'm prepared to do a MOPAR replacement this summer just in case.  All my replacements have been aftermarket.

Re: #2, I think I'm set.

Re: #3, Thank you.  Great recommendation on parking in the middle of the garage.  I've got two doors, but the Jeep is short enough I may be able to do an 8 point turn to get it centered.  We shall see...

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R3
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« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2019, 06:25:10 PM »

When is the garage party?

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Cheers
RRR
17 JKURR
4.5 Metal cloak
37 BFG ATs
Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....
next?

"Keep calm and carry on, No Thanks! I would rather raise hell and change the world."
infinitedh
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Posts: 7
« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2019, 10:21:03 PM »

When is the garage party?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Aiming for the spring. I've got 4 kids, so I barely have time to do anything. Once I get these suckers cleaned up, I'll post an update. Unless you want to come help me clean and paint 'em! ✌🏻


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infinitedh
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« Reply #13 on: February 15, 2019, 12:13:19 PM »

Will I need to shorten both my front and rear driveshaft or just the rear? Switching to a Rubi D44 front and rear. Currently have a D30 front with the stock driveshaft and a D35 rear with a SYE and double cardon CV driveshaft added when I installed my RE 3.5" lift.

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