Hello !
Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
September 19, 2019, 07:49:05 AM

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 12 Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: UNLSHD - Blue 2005 LJ  (Read 10979 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
overhead
Offline
Club President
*
Posts: 10113
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2019, 08:29:42 PM »

3K is a bad deal, and you should post the contact information for the owner of this Jeep here so that the rest of us can contact them about this "bad deal" Laughing

I have dibs sir. Wink

Logged

The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
DamienD
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 1458
« Reply #16 on: February 26, 2019, 07:51:58 AM »

3K is a deal but cash talks and I can guarantee that thing needs work!

LJ's have some issues. replacement top is about 800. Check the Sunrider door surrounds and make sure they are not broken. Check the soft top frame ( they're usually bent)

Carpet is always trashed and that is real expensive. Pull back the front carpet and inspect the floors for rust or signs of heater core leaking

LJ tubs rust under the doors.  The tailgates usually are messed up at the top from closing against the soft top and check the hinges for easy open/close, the seam under the tailgate usually will rust.  Pull the rear plastic wheel liners out and look up in there for rust. look at the bottom of the tub/ floor area. look at the frame where the gas tank mounts front and back and on top of that crossmember where the rear upper shock mounts are. look at the pinch welds for the rear wheel wells at the front where it meets the floor right where the roll bar mounts. check the frame where the belly pan mounts real carefully


Spend your money right and LJ's can be a great investment. Post what you need after you buy it. I have a ton of LJ parts

Logged
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #17 on: February 26, 2019, 08:39:59 AM »

3K is a deal but cash talks and I can guarantee that thing needs work!

LJ's have some issues. replacement top is about 800. Check the Sunrider door surrounds and make sure they are not broken. Check the soft top frame ( they're usually bent)

Carpet is always trashed and that is real expensive. Pull back the front carpet and inspect the floors for rust or signs of heater core leaking

LJ tubs rust under the doors.  The tailgates usually are messed up at the top from closing against the soft top and check the hinges for easy open/close, the seam under the tailgate usually will rust.  Pull the rear plastic wheel liners out and look up in there for rust. look at the bottom of the tub/ floor area. look at the frame where the gas tank mounts front and back and on top of that crossmember where the rear upper shock mounts are. look at the pinch welds for the rear wheel wells at the front where it meets the floor right where the roll bar mounts. check the frame where the belly pan mounts real carefully


Spend your money right and LJ's can be a great investment. Post what you need after you buy it. I have a ton of LJ parts


Damien
Thanks for the pointers. I am well aware that this Jeep will need about 0.5 - 1K to get it to pass VA inspections and another 2-3K in work & parts to get it to where I will be happy to show it off Smile I will reach out to you for help with parts. Thanks again.

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
Runner
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 2124
« Reply #18 on: February 26, 2019, 09:43:24 PM »

This one has really not led a kind life.  It's been my experience that when I see them in this condition, you need to look very carefully for more rust. That said, 3K is a good deal, provided you're willing to put another $3K -$5K into it, which doesn't include a regearing.  The 42RLE will require 4.88 gears, if you plan to run 33" tires.

Logged

2004 LJ, 1999 TJ Sporticon - "Owning a Jeep is a sickness. However, it's one I'll gladly endure!"
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #19 on: February 26, 2019, 10:33:29 PM »

This one has really not led a kind life.  It's been my experience that when I see them in this condition, you need to look very carefully for more rust. That said, 3K is a good deal, provided you're willing to put another $3K -$5K into it, which doesn't include a regearing.  The 42RLE will require 4.88 gears, if you plan to run 33" tires.

Thanks runner. Where else to look for rust?

I am eventually planning to regear. Will stick to stock tire size for now.

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
overhead
Offline
Club President
*
Posts: 10113
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #20 on: February 26, 2019, 11:35:09 PM »

This one has really not led a kind life.  It's been my experience that when I see them in this condition, you need to look very carefully for more rust. That said, 3K is a good deal, provided you're willing to put another $3K -$5K into it, which doesn't include a regearing.  The 42RLE will require 4.88 gears, if you plan to run 33" tires.

Thanks runner. Where else to look for rust?

I am eventually planning to regear. Will stick to stock tire size for now.

You could always sell the stock axles and put like a set of jk axles under it already geared to 4.88 with some 35s that I need to wheel and deal on

Logged

The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
DamienD
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 1458
« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2019, 06:44:09 AM »

You can buy geared TJ Rubi rears for cheaper

Logged
Runner
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 2124
« Reply #22 on: February 27, 2019, 07:36:16 AM »


Thanks runner. Where else to look for rust?

I am eventually planning to regear. Will stick to stock tire size for now.

Typical rust areas for the LJ are:

- Frame (Obvious)
- Fenders (Obvious)
- Rocker Panels (Especially the passenger side)
- Rear Corners (Especially the passenger side where the evap system is)
- Floors (Specifically where the cross braces are tack welded to the tub)
- Brake lines (Check them all)

The things you won't be able to see, and will haunt you later, will be the rust-fused control arm bolts (typically the lower ones) and the rear track bar bolts.  Additionally, the three 12 point bolts that attach the hub bearings, if they haven't been replaced, can be a real problem.  Lastly, don't forget the rear upper shock bolts usually break off.

Others may balk at this, but I've done enough of these to know that at this many miles, and neglect, you can count on replacing:
 - Cooling system
 - Steering (Go the ZJ Route)
 - Brakes
 - Ignition
 - Hub Bearings
 - Oil Pump
 - All gaskets and seals
 - Possibly the A/C system

As Damien mentioned, soft tops for the LJ are stupid expensive.  You can get a frameless top fairly cheap, but I went that path on a TJ and never again!  Lastly, on the gearing, it's true you can find Rubicon axles, but these are getting harder and harder to acquire, and you have to be very careful when buying them.  I bought a pair a while ago, in a hurry, and the front axle turned out to be junk.  Word of caution here, know what you're looking for and take your tiime.  

The next time I build a TJ or LJ it will likely be a Dana 44 rear and high pinion Dana 30 front.  If you're going to run 33" tires these will be more than strong enough and will save you money and weight. If you do re-gear, that would be the time to find a high pinion Dana 30, out of a '99 and back Cherokee, and replace yours with that.  Like I said before, $3k is still a good deal and you shouldn't pass it up unless you find something really bad. 

Finally, I've read enough horror stories about automatic transmission problems with the '05 & '06 Tjs and LJs to know there is a serious problem with a significant number of the PCMs.  Maybe not enough to scare me away, but enough to make sure the vehicle doesn't have any hard shifting issues.  On that topic, it might not be a bad idea to connect a scanner to the OBD2 port and see if there any any codes that didn't get erased. 
 
« Last Edit: February 27, 2019, 09:06:03 AM by Runner »

Logged

2004 LJ, 1999 TJ Sporticon - "Owning a Jeep is a sickness. However, it's one I'll gladly endure!"
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #23 on: February 27, 2019, 02:49:39 PM »


Thanks runner. Where else to look for rust?

I am eventually planning to regear. Will stick to stock tire size for now.

Typical rust areas for the LJ are:

- Frame (Obvious)
- Fenders (Obvious)
- Rocker Panels (Especially the passenger side)
- Rear Corners (Especially the passenger side where the evap system is)
- Floors (Specifically where the cross braces are tack welded to the tub)
- Brake lines (Check them all)

The things you won't be able to see, and will haunt you later, will be the rust-fused control arm bolts (typically the lower ones) and the rear track bar bolts.  Additionally, the three 12 point bolts that attach the hub bearings, if they haven't been replaced, can be a real problem.  Lastly, don't forget the rear upper shock bolts usually break off.

Others may balk at this, but I've done enough of these to know that at this many miles, and neglect, you can count on replacing:
 - Cooling system
 - Steering (Go the ZJ Route)
 - Brakes
 - Ignition
 - Hub Bearings
 - Oil Pump
 - All gaskets and seals
 - Possibly the A/C system

As Damien mentioned, soft tops for the LJ are stupid expensive.  You can get a frameless top fairly cheap, but I went that path on a TJ and never again!  Lastly, on the gearing, it's true you can find Rubicon axles, but these are getting harder and harder to acquire, and you have to be very careful when buying them.  I bought a pair a while ago, in a hurry, and the front axle turned out to be junk.  Word of caution here, know what you're looking for and take your tiime. 

The next time I build a TJ or LJ it will likely be a Dana 44 rear and high pinion Dana 30 front.  If you're going to run 33" tires these will be more than strong enough and will save you money and weight. If you do re-gear, that would be the time to find a high pinion Dana 30, out of a '99 and back Cherokee, and replace yours with that.  Like I said before, $3k is still a good deal and you shouldn't pass it up unless you find something really bad. 

Finally, I've read enough horror stories about automatic transmission problems with the '05 & '06 Tjs and LJs to know there is a serious problem with a significant number of the PCMs.  Maybe not enough to scare me away, but enough to make sure the vehicle doesn't have any hard shifting issues.  On that topic, it might not be a bad idea to connect a scanner to the OBD2 port and see if there any any codes that didn't get erased. 
 


Awesome list  Thumbs Up

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
crazyskier92
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 748
« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2019, 11:33:40 AM »

Yes always haggle, never pay full price. People 9/10 times always budge. If you decide to pass let me know ill give you a finders fee also

Logged
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2019, 11:51:55 AM »

Yes always haggle, never pay full price. People 9/10 times always budge. If you decide to pass let me know ill give you a finders fee also

LOL Very Happy

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #26 on: March 03, 2019, 10:04:38 PM »

Brought it home.

So, as suspected earlier, there aren't any bald spots on the tires. The BFGs are in pretty decent shape. Also, the Jeep drives perfectly straight, no vibrations or bumps / pulls in the steering, the engine smoothly gets up and goes, gear shifts are pretty smooth.

But here are the two main issues that need to be resolved soon.

1. As I accelerate, there is a significant driveline vibration from ~25 mph through ~45 mph. Over that, it kind of smoothes out a bit, just feel less vibration, but it is still there. If I let off the gas, and let it coast, the vibration goes away.

2. Cruise control button illuminates the dash indicator, but after that, none of the other functions work.

After bringing the Jeep home, I noticed that the rear is sagging a bit. I do have plans to put a lift on this Jeep - 2-1/2" Springs along with new shocks. But the question I had in mind was, would a sagging rear end be a cause for driveline vibration just like a lift would cause?

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #27 on: March 04, 2019, 10:40:07 AM »

Can someone help with identifying the cause for the driveline vibration? I can bring the Jeep to you Smile Stopped by 2 different shops this morning and got varying diagnosis. One says ball joints, the other wants me to replace the driveshaft.

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
overhead
Offline
Club President
*
Posts: 10113
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #28 on: March 04, 2019, 10:50:05 AM »

Can someone help with identifying the cause for the driveline vibration? I can bring the Jeep to you Smile Stopped by 2 different shops this morning and got varying diagnosis. One says ball joints, the other wants me to replace the driveshaft.

first, grab the driveshaft and shake.

Second when it's on the ground have someone shake the steering back and fourth rapidly and see what wiggles that shouldnt and if you hear any click or clunk

third jack up the front wheels and shake top to bottom to see if they shift wierdly or you feel a clunk


but before you do any of that check your lug nuts.

Logged

The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
unleashd
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 380
« Reply #29 on: March 04, 2019, 11:10:00 AM »

Can someone help with identifying the cause for the driveline vibration? I can bring the Jeep to you Smile Stopped by 2 different shops this morning and got varying diagnosis. One says ball joints, the other wants me to replace the driveshaft.

first, grab the driveshaft and shake.

Second when it's on the ground have someone shake the steering back and fourth rapidly and see what wiggles that shouldnt and if you hear any click or clunk

third jack up the front wheels and shake top to bottom to see if they shift wierdly or you feel a clunk


but before you do any of that check your lug nuts.

Ok. Will try these and report back. It is coooooooooold outside Very Happy

Logged

Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 12 Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal
Officers:
President: Stephen Clough (overhead) | Vice President: Donnie Herrity (Jeepin_Donnie) | Secretary: Robyn Kronthal (sticksout)
 Treasurer: Danille Wilson (TJ Girl) | Member-at-large: John Davis (jdavis2nd)

Board of Directors:
Andrew Harvin (HarvinJeep) | Dave Plummer (HAWAIICJ) | Sean McCready (Unl1mtd)
Jeff Wilson (jwilson2598) | Aaron Thomson (Jeep Freak) | Dain Wilson (Gr8Dain)

Founding Fathers:
 Jason Markvart (LNDSRK)  | Steve Scott (Islander90) | Josh Storer (Jastor)| Mike Finelli (BiggMike) | John Harper (Opie)

Disclaimer Statement:
All images from NoVaJeepers.net are exclusive to the Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association. Any reproduction of exclusive Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association material is strictly prohibited without written
consent of the Northern Virginia Jeepers Association. Jeep,
Wrangler, Cherokee, Commander, Compass, Patriot, Liberty, Unlimited,
Rubicon, SRT, HEMI and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked
to Chrysler LLC. NoVaJeepers.com, Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
is not in any way associated with the Chrysler LLC.
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines | Theme Design by: Xarcell