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November 21, 2019, 06:54:25 PM

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Author Topic: NP435 into a CJ7  (Read 1965 times)
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MusketStyle
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Ramming it through... MusketStyle
« on: June 11, 2019, 11:55:07 AM »

Ok, picked up an NP435 this past weekend with the intention of putting it in my 85 CJ 7 with a T-5 and an AMC 304 with long tube headers. 4.5" lift with double cardan joint rear DS.

I already have a t176 bellhousing and need the crank bushing.

I plan on buying the Barnes skid plate as well to help with mounting everything

My question is what hidden costs have you all found while doing this conversion. I would rather not do a hydraulic conversion if possible, I assume I will need the Novak adapter for my D300, but can I reuse my stock shifter? No desire for twin stick but not opposed to it . Do the drive shafts work out ok?

I am cheap and willing to do some minor fabrication.
Thanks all!

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2002 WJ I6 selectrak, transmission shift kit

1985 CJ7 I6 258 4.2L
Dana 300
T-5 transmission
32x11.50x15
R3
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« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2019, 12:54:54 PM »

Match the clutch plate with the input shaft, obviously.

Drive line will have to be measured after install of  trans and t-case.  front and rear.

Might have to do some fab on the T case shiftier mount.

trans tunnel might need some shaping I believe the  NP435 is taller

Linkage might need a fabricated part or two.  Hydraulic  slave would be nice.

Trans mount might need some adjusting or relocation.

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MusketStyle
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Ramming it through... MusketStyle
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2019, 01:03:02 PM »

Thanks R3, I am hoping that since the bellhousing is from a CJ the linkage will match up.

I also have a 1" body lift, but I expect I will need to do a bit of cutting on the trans tunnel cover.

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2002 WJ I6 selectrak, transmission shift kit

1985 CJ7 I6 258 4.2L
Dana 300
T-5 transmission
32x11.50x15
highlandercj-7
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2019, 06:19:28 AM »

Buy the heim joint linkage kit if you keep the bell crank, it works great.

Novak is my goto, advance is too proud of their junk and they want to sell everyone an atlas. Novak had a custom pilot bushing I had to use when I swapped my CJ T-18 out for one with a Ford input shaft.

I have never heard of using the AMC bell with the NP435. How does the input shaft lengths compare in length?

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HighlanderCJ-7
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« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2019, 06:26:37 AM »

I have a NP435 in a CJ5. I used the oe amc bell housing, AA pilot bush, AA adapter kit for the D300 and twin sticked the D300. The cj  floor will need to be trimmed at the front of the floor plate and the floor plate will need obviously cut as the shifter cover sticks a couple of inches into the jeep. I also had to cut the shifter lever in 2 places to shorten and rotate the lever to center the shifter ball so that the neutral location is close to the oe shifter location. The NP435 shifter lever will stick through the steering wheel if not cut and turned. I used the oe clutch linkage with exception that I modified it with heim joints. The oe skid had to be cut as the trans will hang 1.5" through it.

When I did this install it was around 1992 when I still had the 258 in it. I now have a 4.0 and drive-ability is 100% better. I still have the 3.73 gears with 31" tires, rear drive shaft is 12.5" long and is a CV style. The only thing you have to watch for is the drive shafts will be twisted or broken this has happened a couple of times.

Overall it is a killer mod the only down side is no overdrive. Hit me up with any questions or if you want to come by and look over the Jeep.

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highlandercj-7
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« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2019, 06:41:32 AM »

Hahaha, I hear you on broken drive shafts. I have twisted a few and rung them to the point they popped in two.

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HighlanderCJ-7
MusketStyle
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Ramming it through... MusketStyle
« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2019, 08:39:24 AM »

Awesome thanks so much for info. Did you break drive shafts due to the extra torque or because of binding?

Are you glad for the twin stick? I have trouble understanding the advantage vs the cost. I have been doing some pretty challenging wheeling for about 6 years now. Rausch blacks etc. I'm on 35s with 3.31 gears. Never really wished for it, but also didn't realize how amazing a locker is until I put one in LoL!!

Can you post some pictures of your install?

I'm going to get a blank, flat in drilled skid from Barnes 4wd as part of the install, so hopefully that will improve that portion of things. I do also have a 1" body lift that should help fitment against the tunnel.

 
I have a NP435 in a CJ5. I used the oe amc bell housing, AA pilot bush, AA adapter kit for the D300 and twin sticked the D300. The cj  floor will need to be trimmed at the front of the floor plate and the floor plate will need obviously cut as the shifter cover sticks a couple of inches into the jeep. I also had to cut the shifter lever in 2 places to shorten and rotate the lever to center the shifter ball so that the neutral location is close to the oe shifter location. The NP435 shifter lever will stick through the steering wheel if not cut and turned. I used the oe clutch linkage with exception that I modified it with heim joints. The oe skid had to be cut as the trans will hang 1.5" through it.

When I did this install it was around 1992 when I still had the 258 in it. I now have a 4.0 and drive-ability is 100% better. I still have the 3.73 gears with 31" tires, rear drive shaft is 12.5" long and is a CV style. The only thing you have to watch for is the drive shafts will be twisted or broken this has happened a couple of times.

Overall it is a killer mod the only down side is no overdrive. Hit me up with any questions or if you want to come by and look over the Jeep.

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2002 WJ I6 selectrak, transmission shift kit

1985 CJ7 I6 258 4.2L
Dana 300
T-5 transmission
32x11.50x15
highlandercj-7
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« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2019, 05:08:38 PM »

No my shafts popped due to a 400HP V-8 and excessive traction.

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HighlanderCJ-7
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« Reply #8 on: June 15, 2019, 06:36:52 AM »

The shaft breakage was from both massive torque multiplication and excessive traction when using lots of throttle to power out of difficult spots. It has happened only a couple of times usually you don't realize until after heading home or ft axle u-joint breaks. I installed alloy ft axle shafts and haven't had a broken inner joint in a while.

I did the D300 twin stick years ago when I had a detroit locker in the rear so I could disengage the ft axle in low range and turn easier on the trail. I now have an ARB in the rear so I don't have the torque steer that happens with the locker. Cj5 can be a lot to manage in the rain on the street with a non disengage-able locker in the rear.

My D300 is not clocked and is installed in the original position. I don't recall how much you can rotate the transfer with the trans being wider than oe. I'll have to look and get some pictures. I'm going to the carshow in Warrenton on sunday.

I did the swap purely for the trans first gear ratio of 6.69 and discovered there was no need to install 4-1 gears in the transfer. Rausch blacks are not to bad to wheel unless there is deep water or mud that seems to be the only challenge.

I have a narrow track Dana 30 in the front and a narrow Dana 44 in the rear. Ft has non selectable locker and the rear has an ARB.

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I6CJ7
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« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2019, 05:08:24 PM »

I have the SM465 from Novak in my CJ7. Only mods are having the bellhousing machined out wider for the front bearing retainer( any decent machine shop can do this). And Novaks input shaft.. the clutch, driveshafts, everything else stays the same. As the SM is the same length as the T5. Although it does hang lower. So you'll have to cut out a notch in the skid plate. Not hard, but it will need a lower piece welded back in to protect the trans

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MusketStyle
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Ramming it through... MusketStyle
« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2019, 03:02:00 PM »

Ok thank you. I am going to use a blank belly pan from barns during the install to simplify mounting the trans in part too because my factory skit is BEAT.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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2002 WJ I6 selectrak, transmission shift kit

1985 CJ7 I6 258 4.2L
Dana 300
T-5 transmission
32x11.50x15
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