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August 25, 2019, 10:34:41 AM

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Author Topic: Tow pig recommendations  (Read 767 times)
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Ta Tonka
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« Reply #15 on: August 04, 2019, 02:49:38 PM »

Be careful with Dodge trucks. I really liked the Rams also but a friend of mine who is a Mopar mechanic warned me that their automatic transmissions had proven problematic for the last 10 years or so. Inter web and forum research seemed to back his report up. He did mention that their manuals were okay - but I donít know if thatís the best setup for towing.


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Gr8Dain
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« Reply #16 on: August 04, 2019, 03:05:18 PM »

Be careful with Dodge trucks. I really liked the Rams also but a friend of mine who is a Mopar mechanic warned me that their automatic transmissions had proven problematic for the last 10 years or so. Inter web and forum research seemed to back his report up. He did mention that their manuals were okay - but I donít know if thatís the best setup for towing.


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I had heard that as well but thought they had fixed the issue. I will research. Thanks.

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Dain

1984 CJ-8 Scrambler
3.5" lift
DD and trail toy

1949 CJ 3a - Stock - Garage queen

2015 JKU - Completely stock - Family mobile
RattleTrap55
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84 CJ7
« Reply #17 on: August 04, 2019, 07:59:21 PM »

I am a little bias but it is hard to beat a 2008 - 12 Suburban/Yukon XL 1500 ordered with a factory towing package. They are cheap enough now, come with a brake controller, have a towing capacity of 8,500 lbs which is more than you will ever need and you can haul a 4x8 sheet of plywood or sleep 2 comfortably in the back. I get about 18 MPG in town, 21 mpg on the highway, and 14 mpg towing the CJ. They are good for 250-300,000 trouble free miles and parts are cheap and available anywhere.

Once again just one guys opinion.
It's my understanding that even if they don't have the tow package you can upgrade it with a regear and some wiring (4 pin to 7 pin + brake lines?). My 09 1500 doesn't have the tow package and I was looking at the differences in the owners manual last night and online. Could be way off, but that seemed to be the initial difference. Heck my tow rating goes up 2k pounds just by regearing from 3.23 to 3.73 according to the manual!


James you are correct it is just a matter of re-gearing, adding a controller, hitch, and heavy duty springs. My only point is that so many of the Suburbans/Yukon XL from that period where ordered with the tow package that it is pretty easy to find a low milage 135-160,000 mile vehicle with everything you need and you are ready to go....

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4" Lift on 33's
4.2L w/HESCO MFI & Howard Cam
T-5 & Dana 300
Smittybilt 9,500 Winch
Spartan Locker

2018 JKU - box stock
2002 TJ Sahara w/Very Rusted Frame
R3
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« Reply #18 on: August 05, 2019, 06:31:56 AM »

 Two cents from, the cheap seats.

Diesels are nice  but as was stated before  way overkill for  the occasional towing Job.  If you are looking new,  the big three  all have  the capacity to tow  well in the "half ton"  range.  Chatting with owners of all three  over the years the average is about 13-15 mpg.  That is to say  13-15 mpg as long as you drive like you are towing a heavy trailer.  Most drive like they are trying to win the Indy 500, that mileage is significantly worse (4-6 mpg range).  If you are going to tow a lot and tow distance a diesel investment  might be better. The "3/4 ton" rigs all come with  big brakes, electronic transmissions and  more power than a Semi truck.  My Fords  with 10-12,000# behind them, when driven correctly, all got between 16-18 mpg, the two rams I had,  1 ton and 3/4 ton,  both did  great in the fuel mileage department  the 3/4  averaged 20 scans trailer and 16-18 with 10k load.  the 1 ton  averaged 16 with or without a 10k load. The New  GM trucks  are getting  crazy fuel mileage numbers with  "light"  trailers( 10,000#)

Other than a few MPGs (which if you do a cost comparison  will take you 20 years to make up the delta in price) to real difference is  drivability.  300-400 HP and 600-1000 torques make for a easy drive, if not down right sporty.  The ability to merge into traffic or pass  on a grade the extra torque is king.

The down side is  the EPA has applied  Gasoline technology  to the emissions. EGR and  the after treatment  design  seriously reduce the longevity of the engines.  Yes you can delete these items  and run the risk of being tagged for non compliance in some states.  Delete kits and tuners run  about $2000.  I will say  deleting my 17 3500 made the world of difference in performance and fuel economy.  Another  cost is the  DEF  is required to run these new rigs.  if you let the tank go empty you get a warning, then the trucks go into a limp home mode, which forces you into filling the DEF tank. A diesel engine option is also a bit costly new. $5-$6000 or more.  Fuel is also 20-40 cents a gallon more expensive.

Last note on diesels, they are made to run and worked.  If you use them as a grocery getter and short trips  the advantages of  400hp and 1000 torques Diesel quickly slip away.

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17 JKURR
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Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....


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Gr8Dain
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« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2019, 07:15:15 AM »

Thanks gentlemen. I am going to focus on finding a 1/2 ton that has the ability to tow 10k.

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Dain

1984 CJ-8 Scrambler
3.5" lift
DD and trail toy

1949 CJ 3a - Stock - Garage queen

2015 JKU - Completely stock - Family mobile
highlandercj-7
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« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2019, 08:37:32 AM »

Also note the newer Suburban's are unreal with the 5.3L - 4 cyl kick back mode. I averaged 26 MPG with the highest average showing on the computer at 34MPG. It also hit triple digits on a 9k ft mountain and pulled 41 MPG going across the high desert at 80 MPH. I was shocked at its performance.

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HighlanderCJ-7
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