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August 25, 2019, 10:27:00 AM

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Author Topic: TJ infamous rear shock upper screws?! Help.  (Read 301 times)
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Wrangler#1811
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« on: August 10, 2019, 10:40:29 PM »

I installed a 3Ē lift kit but the rear shocks upper screw are not looking good and fought my impact gun hard so I stopped before they broke off.  I have been applying PB Blaster for days/weeks and no go. 

Iím think I may have found a fix.  The screws can be broken off (which may be inevitable) then these brackets can welded over the old screw locations. 

Rough Country Rear Shock Upper Bar Pin Eliminator Kit Compatible w/ 1997-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK TJ 1089 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2AFPRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eL4tDb13J70NQ

I would take the bow tie off the new shocks and use the included sleeves and bolt on the brackets.  Sure I lose 1/2Ē of travel on the shock, but I am NOT going to be lifting the tub and taking the gas tank off to shave off the old nuts. 

Any thoughts or advice? 

Thanks.

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majestek12
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2019, 11:06:00 PM »

BPEs are definitely the way to go. If the factory bolts end up coming out then great, if not there's enough room to drill new holes a little skewed to the existing and not have to chisel off the old weld-nuts. In either case, even though you express lack of desire in lifting the tub, you'll likely have to remove several rear body bolt sets and lift to get enough clearance on top of the crossmember for fingers and wrenches. As long as the body bolts are in good shape this won't take long and is definitely a time and knuckle saving measure compared to doing it at factory body height, only gotta do it once. Trust me, you'll.be glad you did. I have a 1.25" BL on mine and it was just enough clearance to not have to lift the body. I've helped with a couple factory setup BPE installs and all required lifting the tub. If you don't have a BL then I'd suggest putting a piece of 2x4 above the frame rail as a safety measure whole the body is lifted.

Do look at your shocks - while 1/2" may not be a big deal now shocks tend to come in design groups where 1/2" may just put you too short for the "next largest" extended/compressed length and net you in inch or more shorter on extended length. All depends on your setup though.

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Wrangler#1811
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2019, 12:15:51 PM »

Ok, although I Raptor Lined the inside of my tub (really nice look too) Iím wondering if cutting the floor to have present and future access to the shock bolts is a good idea.  I would cut as small a hole as possible and I would shoot for the size needed to be able to use a rubber grommet.  The grommet would make it look factory, even though it would be covered by the rear seat, and obviously the grommet would be easy to remove when needed. 

Thoughts? 

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sjalkian
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2019, 07:25:03 PM »

Iíve seen many people cut holes in the tub to access from above. Seems to be the fastest and easiest way to get the job done. I was lucky on mine. I wouldnít hit those bolts with an impact though.

Sarkis


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2000 TJ SE
4.25 total lift (3" SL and 1.25"BL)
33's
Rear D44 with ARB locker and 33 spline cromo shafts and 4.88 gears
Front HP D30 with Aussie Locker and 4.88 gears
X20 10K Synthetic Winch
unl1mtd
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King George, VA
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2019, 08:45:46 PM »

x2 on majestekís comments

Break off the bolts. Get the shocks out. Lift the tub. Air chisel the nuts off and then use regular nut/bolt for the future.

This is what I did when it happened on my LJ.

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Gogged
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« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2019, 06:03:33 AM »

Yep, those are notorious. 3 of 4 broke on mine. Those bolts go into the frame and they rust. Full Awn Fab drilled mine out, and also drilled a hole through my tub.......and didn't know or tell me about it..so I highly advise you don't call them.  They used brackets and new bolts. It is not easy to get to.  I'd recommend OCD in Stafford or ORI in Winchester if you are worried about tackling it yourself. It should only be an hour or two of labor.

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2018 JLUR 3.5" Metalcloak lift, 37s

'06 TJ Sport...sold..

V.P. Black Goat Offroad Club
dan58
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« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2019, 06:54:07 AM »

Why not take the opportunity to outboard them?  No more worries.

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majestek12
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« Reply #7 on: August 15, 2019, 09:43:57 AM »

Why not take the opportunity to outboard them?  No more worries.

Seems like frenching the frame and welding in new shock towers would go against the general preference to not even lift the tub... Definite solid answer for someone looking for a long-term fix and better suspension performanc a d options but a bit more involved...

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unleashd
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« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2019, 06:56:10 AM »

Those bolts are a pain in the rear to get off clean. After soaking them in PB Blaster for multiple days, I had no success in getting them off cleanly. Finally decided to cut them off and replace them with BPEs. It is not difficult to get the body mounts off and lift the tub to get access to the welded nuts underneath. I just slid a dremel with a 90* attachment and bunch of cutting wheels (amateur here) to cut those nuts off. I removed all the body bolts except the 1 up front under the engine to get the safe clearance. One lesson learnt for me was to secure the tub BEFORE lifting it. My driveway is on an incline and at some point during the day of working, it decided to slide forward about 1/2"  Very Mad Nothing that a couple of straps couldn't fix to bring it back to alignment  Thumbs Up







BTW, if you don't mind cutting your tub, I've read a few posts on the interwebs that talk about this option as well.



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Prakash

o|||||||o
2005  LJ

Quote from: Runner
A 3.73 ratio, or 4.10 for that matter, won't cut it with 32-33" tires and the 42RLE automatic.  4.88 is the sweet spot
majestek12
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2019, 11:22:33 PM »

Had never thought about it myself but if you took the measurement of the front floor drain plugs you might able to cut the rear tub to a matching dimension, get to the weld nuts, paint the edge of the cuts, and do your work then pop the drain plugs back in for a very factory look.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2019, 11:30:06 PM by majestek12 »

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