Hello !
Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
September 19, 2019, 08:10:16 AM

Pages: [1] Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: 2004 Unlimited  (Read 181 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Rotts2004LJ
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 4
« on: September 13, 2019, 12:53:14 PM »

Picked up my LJ yesterday in Fredericksburg and drove it back to Purcellville. It "Floats" worse than my CJ-7, no vibration in the steering wheel. Looking at the sway bar and steering stabilizer, they look weak and worn out.

So;

1. What do you recommend for possible fix for the floating? New sway bar? Steering stabilizer? What else? Do you have a specific manufacturer?

2. Next, it currently has 315/75R16 tires on it, I thought the stock rim was 15"? If so do you suggest going back to 15"? Overall height of the tires are 34"

Once I get it as a solid driver I want to add a few things: Winch/Pro6 Light bar/??????

Thanks!

John

Logged
overhead
Offline
Club President
*
Posts: 10113
Crap, someone call Trevor.
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2019, 02:25:44 PM »

define floating? On the "older" jeeps I'd check ball joints, unit bearings, track bar, tie rods ends and what not in that order.

15s were the stock wheel size, you can get back tot he stock size, but 17s are more prevalent now a days because of the JKs. You can run the 16s without adverse effects though. No reason to go back unless you struggle finding tires in that size. they're just not as common.

Winches are great, but training for them is advised. Light bars are.... ok.... you're MUCH MUCH MUCH better off upgrading the stock lights and fog lights first. I use my headlights every single day.... light bars maybe once a month, winch once a wheeling trip which is maybe once every other month. I'd fix it up and wheel it stock first to see how you wheel to see what upgrades you need.

I'd always recommend skids before light bars, but if you don't intend to wheel in deep rocks skids might not be needed.

Logged

The only thing about a Yj that's reliable is its mechanic.

Joey to Mike- That's more like it! Never done.....just outta money at the moment.

atjeep-Every time a YJ passes inspection, an angel gets it's wings.
R3
Offline
Committee: Trail Rides
*
Posts: 913
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2019, 03:43:01 PM »

Floating?

Tracking issues could be caused by a variety of things.
Steering box and or linkage
Ball joints
Track bars
Tie rod
Tires, pressure and put wear.
Alignment...
Control arms loose or bushings worn.

Cheers

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Logged

Cheers
RRR
17 JKURR
EVO long arms and King Coil overs
37 BFG KM3
Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....


"Keep calm and carry on, No Thanks! I would rather raise hell and change the world."
Rotts2004LJ
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 4
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2019, 03:53:45 PM »

Thanks for the responses!

By "Floating" I mean it starts to drift to one side and when I start to steer back all of a sudden it shoots to the other side like I was steering to much or the steering was delayed and finally caught up, but there is NO VIBRATION.

I plan checking all of the things mentioned this weekend hopefully.

Logged
R3
Offline
Committee: Trail Rides
*
Posts: 913
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2019, 04:12:08 PM »

Could be alignment but sounds like worn bits.

Check play in steering box
Check at in steering linkage
Check ball joints.

My money is on ball joints. Worn ball joints exhibit the "float" you described.

Accessories.... I would ditch the light bar in favor of better primary lighting, fog lights....unless you are going to spend a bunch of time night wheeling.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Logged

Cheers
RRR
17 JKURR
EVO long arms and King Coil overs
37 BFG KM3
Dynatrac, PSC, Barnes, Ried, RCV....


"Keep calm and carry on, No Thanks! I would rather raise hell and change the world."
Runner
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 2124
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2019, 08:14:01 AM »

The stock track bar and steering is not up to 35" tires!  At a minimum, I'd replace the track bar with a quality HD aftermarket version, like Metalcloak's, and do the ZJ steering conversion.  In the process, as was stated, take a look at the ball joints and see if they need replacing. Also, you didn't state what kind lift is on the Jeep and what was replaced there.  Worn or sloppy control arms can be another contributing factor.  FWIW, this comes from another 2004 LJ owner running 35s. 

Logged

2004 LJ, 1999 TJ Sporticon - "Owning a Jeep is a sickness. However, it's one I'll gladly endure!"
zuke
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 1440
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2019, 02:16:06 PM »

Could be insufficient caster too, when lifted, a considerable amount of caster can be lost on the axle trying to get the front pinion angle right, and leading to steering that wanders.

Logged

John
2017 BU Trailhawk
2015 JK Unlimited Sahara
2008 JK Unlimited
2006 TJ Rubicon
1999 TJ SE
dave2002ti
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 1097
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2019, 07:39:30 AM »

I would check the shocks and springs.  See what you got etc.  If its been lifted might want to look at the quality of the lift kit. 

I would then check and make sure everything is where it supposed to be  and located correctly and that the chassis is square.

Also check the control arms, ball joints and all bushings. Also what tires are on the vehicle????  What condition are they in? How old are the tires?

I have swapped tires on a vehicle and it was like night and day when we put the car back on the road.

Rather than guess at what needs to be replaced you might want to just replace everything in the suspension with quality parts.

Worn shocks will cause float. 

Dave Apker



Logged
Rotts2004LJ
Offline
Forum User
Posts: 4
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2019, 09:47:15 AM »

So far looking it over Saturday I have this;

Lift kit is unknown- I could not find any identifying marks.
Tires are brand new 365/75R16 BFG All-Terrains mounted on M/T alloy rims.
The sway bar/track bar and pretty much all the steering parts on the front end look stock and worn to include the single steering stabilizer

So the plan as of right now is to drop it at my local shop that I have been using for 14 years now. Have Kenny look it over front to back/top to bottom and check everything. Based on his exam I will start replacing parts that need it first and then as needed to upgrade from stock.

Thanks again everyone and I will update as this goes along.

John

Logged
dave2002ti
Offline
Member 2019
*
Posts: 1097
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2019, 10:25:56 AM »

Might check and see of previous owners is selling a lift kit with shocks and springs???


Dave Apker

Logged
Pages: [1] Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal
Officers:
President: Stephen Clough (overhead) | Vice President: Donnie Herrity (Jeepin_Donnie) | Secretary: Robyn Kronthal (sticksout)
 Treasurer: Danille Wilson (TJ Girl) | Member-at-large: John Davis (jdavis2nd)

Board of Directors:
Andrew Harvin (HarvinJeep) | Dave Plummer (HAWAIICJ) | Sean McCready (Unl1mtd)
Jeff Wilson (jwilson2598) | Aaron Thomson (Jeep Freak) | Dain Wilson (Gr8Dain)

Founding Fathers:
 Jason Markvart (LNDSRK)  | Steve Scott (Islander90) | Josh Storer (Jastor)| Mike Finelli (BiggMike) | John Harper (Opie)

Disclaimer Statement:
All images from NoVaJeepers.net are exclusive to the Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association. Any reproduction of exclusive Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association material is strictly prohibited without written
consent of the Northern Virginia Jeepers Association. Jeep,
Wrangler, Cherokee, Commander, Compass, Patriot, Liberty, Unlimited,
Rubicon, SRT, HEMI and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked
to Chrysler LLC. NoVaJeepers.com, Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
is not in any way associated with the Chrysler LLC.
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines | Theme Design by: Xarcell