Hello !
Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
August 23, 2019, 08:55:21 AM

Pages: [1] Go Down
Author Topic: Xtreme Inc Giveaway - SYE kit (Jan 2012)  (Read 6453 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Forum User
Posts: 1148
« on: May 23, 2012, 05:49:25 PM »

First I want to apologize to Xtreme Inc for taking so long to get this posted.  We had no idea the slippery slope of modding required to really use the SYE.  However, I'd like to thank them for supporting the club, for this give away, and the education we have received on jeeps because of winning.  I encourage all newbs to read more and ask more questions before entering the giveaways!  
TJs (non Rubicon) with a lift around 4 inches will need an SYE to calm drive train vibrations... your lift will require several things like track bars, control arms, sway bar connections, etc  you will also NEED a new drive shaft... you can get a drive shaft with the "range" already or after your SYE install measure for a custom unit.  Obviously the custom unit will work "best."  We have a Tom Woods shaft ready to be modified Wink if needed...
I'll add the install into the jeep and drive shaft measurements when we get the tummy tuck.
We did the install off the TJ and on a spare NP231 we picked up.  We did this for several reasons:
1. The TJ is a daily gas killing beast and we can have it go down
2. I'll build motors all day, but transmissions and things like THAT scare me
3. NP231s are cheap-ish
4. I can save my back by working on the bench/ground
The most important tools for this job is a GOOD set of snap ring pliers.  I had to wait 3 weeks (plus) for my good snap ring pliers to come in.  The craftsman stuff is JUNK.  I bent/broke/etc their set.  There are big/thick snap rings... with my good set (snap on) I was able to do everything alone.  with the craftsman set I needed flat head screwdrivers, picks, and a extra set of hands.
This is the list of tools you need if the NP231 is still on the Jeep:
8mm socket
10mm 12 point socket
10mm 6 point socket (if you want)
14mm socket
14mm wrench
15mm socket
19mm socket
1/2 socket
1 1/8 inch socket
Flat head screw driver
TQ wrench capable of 150lbs
Rubber mallet
Inner and outer HD snap ring pliers
Needle nose pliers
Gear puller (5 inches or larger range) *insert off top joke here*
2 quarts of Auto Trans fluid
RTV (or hondabond like I used)

Start by draining the Transfer Case… or there will be a mess!

Then you remove rear driveshaft yoke (1 1/8 socket) and the boot.  The kit came with new hardware, but someone thought we should be gentle and save these (its ok I still love her)
If you have a harmonic balance, remove it with a gear puller.  Some of them are small; the ones you see on other internet tutorials are much larger.  

Remove the oil seal.  If your TC is all nasty like ours, you'll screw it up and need another one.  I tried to use the flat head and get it off, but it just wouldn’t budge!

Yes I killed it!

Remove the speedometer gear assembly and the bracket.  


Remove the inner and outer rings with the HD snap ring pliers (the craftsman snap ring pliers weren’t strong enough so I had to use needle nose!  This is me happy!)

Use the 10mm to remove the 5 bolts on the housing
Using a rubber mallet tap on the housing to remove
Remove the front drive shaft yoke with the 1 1/8 socket

Mark where the 12 point 10mm is located on the TC, also mark the two longer bolts (the internet claims they look blue) so you'll know the pry points, use the 15mm to remove the rest of them.  
Pry ONLY from your pry points.  you might need several sizes of flat heads to make sure you get it to loosen up by only using the pry points.  you dont want to warp/break/screw up the TC housing!  

Pull off the TC housing (dont lose your magnet, and clean it while you are in there)

Shake both shafts to remove, remember the direction of removal, and remove the long rear shaft from the chain

I found the vise (with rags wrapped around the shaft) really helped when working on the shaft
Remove the large snap ring on the shaft then gently turn the gear set over onto the bench.  Lube the new SYE shaft and slide it in the gear set left on the bench and carefully flip them over and put them back on the new shaft.

Put the big snap ring back on... there should be a new one in the kit... it goes back on easier but "might" break cheap snap ring pliers
Put the shaft back in the chain, lube the shafts and gently put them back in the TC just as you removed them.  they will need to be wiggled back in!
Time to clean!  Razor blade and steel wool... make sure you clean out steel wool stuff!  

RTV/hondabond (I’m a honda guy, it holds their motors together, it doesnt have to sit and cure forever like some RTVs) sue me!  wiggle it around a little to make sure it all lines up and slides on right

Fit the oil pump carefully... make sure it is hooked in well.  I have a trick if you screw up, but I didnt take pics Sad if you take the screws out because you didnt read and/or you didnt know... you can use two long zip ties to rest the pump on while you lines things up.  it will allow it to sag just enough to get the screws back in!
TQ to 25ft/lbs... remember you marked the spot for the 12 point 10mm and the long bolts!

Snap rings and speedo gear!  the light at the end of the tunnel!

Add RTV/Hondabond to new short tail housing!  
TQ your 5 10mm bolts to 20ftlbs

Add the new star rubber bushing and a little RTV and toss on the new output yoke!  TQ to 150ft/lbs or snug it with the impact like me lol

make sure it’s all sealed up... there was a plug to add!
We left it to sit for an hour to make sure it all settled Smile

« Last Edit: May 23, 2012, 08:04:12 PM by unl1mtd »


1999 Yamaha R6 (Blaze Orange)
Posts: 2618
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2012, 06:46:43 PM »

Well done!


I think I saw a thing, but I don't know what thing I thought I saw.
Safari Jeep XJ
Forum User
Posts: 4888
Remember that 2012 Winter Ride? Yeah...
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2014, 02:09:53 PM »

Want to say thanks for this. Useful when replacing the chain in my Tcase.

For the record, if just replacing the chain and not the output shaft, you can just split the case, remove the front yoke, and pull apart. But this is still a really useful writeup for that process.


1990 XJ Laredo
Renix 4.0L, AX-15, NP231J
Build Sheet

"He'sa comin' down from the Cumberland Gap to Johson City, Tennessee..."
Forum User
Posts: 1148
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2014, 09:45:31 AM »

Well I'm glad the write up helped someone! That's the point of these I guess! hopefully we get this thing in the jeep in the spring... belly up time!


1999 Yamaha R6 (Blaze Orange)
Pages: [1] Go Up
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal
President: Stephen Clough (overhead) | Vice President: Donnie Herrity (Jeepin_Donnie) | Secretary: Robyn Kronthal (sticksout)
 Treasurer: Danille Wilson (TJ Girl) | Member-at-large: John Davis (jdavis2nd)

Board of Directors:
Andrew Harvin (HarvinJeep) | Dave Plummer (HAWAIICJ) | Sean McCready (Unl1mtd)
Jeff Wilson (jwilson2598) | Aaron Thomson (Jeep Freak) | Dain Wilson (Gr8Dain)

Founding Fathers:
 Jason Markvart (LNDSRK)  | Steve Scott (Islander90) | Josh Storer (Jastor)| Mike Finelli (BiggMike) | John Harper (Opie)

Disclaimer Statement:
All images from NoVaJeepers.net are exclusive to the Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association. Any reproduction of exclusive Northern Virginia
Jeepers Association material is strictly prohibited without written
consent of the Northern Virginia Jeepers Association. Jeep,
Wrangler, Cherokee, Commander, Compass, Patriot, Liberty, Unlimited,
Rubicon, SRT, HEMI and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked
to Chrysler LLC. NoVaJeepers.com, Northern Virginia Jeepers Association
is not in any way associated with the Chrysler LLC.
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines | Theme Design by: Xarcell